OBSERVATIONS: Not sure the origins, but the Quebecers love having pickles with many dishes and will even eat them as an appetizer. Portion sizes seem to be HUGE!!! Food comes very quickly once you order. Baguette bread is delicious here.
Overcast day today, but around 12 degrees according to the weather report. Problem we have found in Montréal is when the wind is howling it is much colder than the reported temperature. Most times we are out and about it can be very windy. It is a long walk to Beautys Luncheonette located in the Plateau neighbourhood. I got mixed up with another destination and discovered after a long walk we had gone past it. We decided to grab a taxi to get us to the restaurant before the lunch crowd. First time in a downtown taxi. ;-)
Beautys Luncheonette is another find courtesy of Anthony Bourdain. Described as a very old diner (1942) with Jewish selections. The owner is more than 90 years old and his bowling nickname is Beauty so that is the origin of the name. The diner has been updated since then and Hymie (Beauty) greets customers as they enter. We notice that he doesn't really show you to your table--but rather points at where he'd like you to go. But given Hymie is 90 and still works an honest day--it's pretty endearing. There's no jukebox, but definitely still a classic diner. This is the placemat on your table (pic below). It is known for its smoothies that are pretty much milkshakes. Interesting that we found only about three or four selections that would be considered Jewish and those are dishes that are fairly common in non-Jewish places (smoked salmon, chopped liver, bagels, potato latkes).
My order of an Apple Pie Smoothie! You can see the ice cream on top with some cinnamon. Absolutely delicious. We both enjoyed this 'smoothie' and would highly recommend. This could be a meal on its own.
I ordered a salami, egg, cheddar cheese and tomato on challah bread. Wow, what a great taste! Lana confirmed the bread is butter toasted which explains the wonderful taste. For those of you not sure what "butter toasted" is, if you've ever made a grilled cheese sandwich and spread butter on one side of the bread to be toasted while the cheese melts--this is butter toasted. Of course the butter melts and gets all golden and brown adding a wonderful flavour and crunch to the sandwich. To be honest, you could probably put a piece of rubber tire between two pieces of butter toasted bread and it would be delicious. Lana grew up eating butter toasted hot cross buns and every April when it's Easter, she goes to Terra Breads to buy the amazing hot crossed buns there. Once home, she butter toasts them to wonderful warm toasty goodness. The challah bread was light and the insides were all perfectly cooked.
This is a Montréal bagel with salmon and lox. We didn't eat it, but next time! We find the Montréal bagels to be denser and chewier.
After lunch, we head to the spa. We decide the walk the 3+ kms downhill (mostly) to the Scandinavian Spa located in Old Montréal and close to the river.
This building is typical of many buildings we encounter on our walks. Three levels with stairs on the outside.
We have free passes to Scandinavian Spa and Lana organized a Swedish massage for 2:30 pm. The spa is unique in that it's all about the process of heating the body, then quickly cooling it, then resting. This cycle is to be repeated at least 3 times in order to be effective. There are three different options for heating: hot water pool with waterfall feature, Finnish dry sauna and a steam sauna. You can try all three of use whichever you prefer. After you heat up for 10-15 minutes, you are required to quickly cool down you body (shock value and to seal in the heat). Here you have two options: a cold water dunk in a small pool or an ice water shower. We try both and Randy enjoys the dunk tank which proves to be too much for Lana who uses the shower instead. After the 10-15 second cool down, you need to relax for 15 minutes to allow the body to return to a normal temperature. Then it's time to start all over again.
The spa asks everyone to be silent during the treatment and other than a few whispers here and there, the only sounds you hear are of trickling water and relaxing spa music. This is a photo of one of the relaxation areas--note the big comfy lounge chairs where you can spread out to relax. There is a fresh juice bar and snacks to purchase as well.
Everyone gets a robe, slippers, towels and an electronic bracelet which opens and secures your locker. No key to carry or attach to your swimsuit.
It's blissful afternoon and we walk back to the hotel in a windy late afternoon downtown. We are both so relaxed from the spa and resting. About a fifteen minute walk to the hotel. More rest and then back out into the elements for another long walk to a restaurant. Our destination is L'Express which is described as a classic French bistro located on Rue St. Denis. Recommended by a few of our friends. As you can see from the picture below, they don't even have a sign. Apparently, they have never felt the need to have a sign.
Interior of L'Express. Note how the servers are dressed. Very old school, but appreciated. What do you know, they have a bar! ;-)
Lana with the cornichon pickles that arrive as a free appetizer. Lana not usually a pickle fan, but has loved the pickles in Montréal.
Randy enjoying his Muscadet wine.
We decide to forgo ordering any of the main dishes as the appetizers were so intriguing and interesting. This is rare, but when we find a great appetizer list then it can be fun to try more dishes. Our first appetizer was the "oeuf mayonnaise" which is hard boiled eggs covered in mayonnaise. This is not your usual mayonnaise, but home made with some type of curry. Delicious and different.
Next up is Lana's "potage topinambours" cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup. She loved this hearty soup; creamy, smooth and flavourful.
Next appetizer was our number one priority to order; "os a moelle" which is roasted bone marrow with salt. Comes with decorative cabbage and crustini bread. Yes, a great choice as you gotta love bone marrow. Almost as good as foie gras. ;-)
I focused then on eating the "chèvre chaud" warm goat cheese salad. Comes with Belgian endives, radicchio and lettuce. The warm goat cheese was smooth and warm. I thoroughly enjoyed the salad.
Lana loved her "pieuvre et lentilles" salad. Octopus with lentils and garnished with olives. Octopus was tender and contrasted texture with the lentils. Yummy!
The service all night was friendly and timely. A French bistro that rivals anything in Vancouver.
We start walking down Rue St. Denis and it is very cold especially in the fierce winds. We get a few blocks and see a queue of taxis outside a hotel near Sherbrooke Street so jump in and get a ride back to the hotel.
A wonderful day and great ending to our Montréal holiday.
Au revoir! We fly home to Vancouver tomorrow. What a fantastic vacation in a special Canadian city.
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